Digital format was historic not only for the fashion world, but also for Italy as a whole. Despite the highly developed fashion industry the Italians for a long time remained stubbornly conservative, preferring the actual meetings and the personal contact of digital projects and online communications. Quarantine gave an important impetus to changes in this area.Of the 41, only two of the brand decided to conduct physical screenings with the audience — D&G and Etro. Despite positive feedback about the collections themselves, both were highly criticized by the public for lack of compliance with the rules of social distancing by the audience. Video presentations of the brands have become a connecting link between the past and the future. More and more companies talking about their history and nostalgic about the founders of brands. Other designers presented their collections as a step into the future with no place for a lot of things and stereotyped patterns (e.g., Prada). The outcome was a collection of Gucci, with which the Italian house was saying goodbye to the familiar world of fashion, as we knew before the pandemic. Recall that creative Director Alessandro Michele may said that in the future potential the traditional format of fashion shows and seasonal collections will be revised, the designer will present a collection twice a year, and they will be off-season. “Our reckless behavior is burned the house in which we live. History is full of crises that we have not learned, wrote in his diaries Michele. But this crisis unexpectedly has increased the need for change that we can no longer ignore. I want to leave behind paraphernalia keynotes, colonized our world: cruise collection, pre-collection, autumn-winter. It’s stale, its antiquated methods, completely lost contact with the world.”Gucci resort 2021В the final day of Digital Fashion Week, Milano Alessandro Michele presented a collection of “Epilogue” that covers not only a thematic trilogy (beginning in February), but a particular Chapter in the history of the brand. A live webcast of the presentation Gucci lasted 12 hours on all available social platforms. Viewers from around the world had access to the backstage shooting of the campaign of the new collection. You can see live the work of a team of designers, makeup artists and photographers in the Palazzo Sacchetti. People in masks and regular clothes and moving furniture, answering phone calls, put up the lights and chased geese, climbing into the frame. It seemed that at any moment everything is exhale and the official start of the show. But this did not happen. Model, periodically flashing in the frame, was part of the design team — people with not model; proportions and style. The lookbook of the collection is riddled with notes in the margins from the series — “remove the bag in the hands of large PLANO��”, “remove hair” and “leave the piercing”. The collection was the culmination of 5 years of work of the designer in the Italian fashion house he gathered all popular models and motives together, adding to them a few prints from the archives of the 1970s. the Iconic handbag of Dionysus, Ophidia and Jackie 1961, images of cartoon Doraemon beside the signature monogram, bright floral prints, metallic jacquard, sequins presentation reminded the deposits of thrift stores. “The epilogue is the closing to reopen. Revaluation of time and opportunity to return to a natural human speed” — the site says Gucci. However, we have encouraging, not sad. “In the future the time will come when we learn to hear the sound of the forest, growing in the night,” Michele wrote in her diary.Ermenegildo Zegna, spring summer 2021Креативный Director of the brand Alessandro Sartori was thinking about the relationship of nature, man and machine. Who is stronger? Which of the phenomena will swallow the other? And what can be done, so they exist in harmony? On these issues, I thought the designer during the quarantine, when the brand was forced to stop its production.The collection was presented in the heart of the nature reserve Oasi Zegna — it extends from Trivero, a village in Piedmont, where Ermenegildo Zegna founded the cloth factory in 1910 — to the mountain tops of Belmont. On elaborately assembled video models walked the forest trails along the dense trees, the neat paths in the garden, and then among the machines in the warehouse and containers in production. Most designers this week talked about the fact that the future of conscious fashion, and Sartori was no exception. Soft tailoring — his new method of cut, to help create a light and relaxed silhouette, even in a business suit — makes every model multifunction. Loose outwear with flying coat-tails, broad and weightless like pants, rounded sleeves on the shirts are the main characteristics of the collection. “Hybrid clothing” was the main idea of the brand: from jackets that can be worn as shirts to belousovoj the fabrics used in the costumes. The range of accessories also fit into the overall picture.So, in the new collection, you can find recycled denim, cotton and new unique combinations that the company found as a result of regeneration of the fibers. Three-piece suits made of 50% recycled material — mix of viscose and silk.Maneuvering between classic, dark, pastel and mustard colors, the designer added a few prints. Taking the ornaments from the archives of the 1940s and 1950s, Sartori turned jacquard pattern in a blurred tie-dye and pajama stripes made the main picture for the blazers.”Lockdown showed us all what we really don’t need it and that’s what we need”, — explained the designer,��— “The crisis was born a new and I hope that this will be our important step to the future.”Victoria Kokareva
