Underwear as outerwear last 20 years has firmly remained in fashion: corsets bustier and briefs by themselves or shining through the transparent skirt — almost never left the podium. But the most important happened outside of the usual halo seksualnosti Miuccia Prada came up with a collection summer of 2009, she, of course, meant another, invented 20 years before this truly historic collection — Maison Martin Margiela summer of 1990. Rhyme Prada SS 09 — Maison Martin Margiela SS 90 non-random and significant.In the collection of Martin Margiela, as usual, many purposes — including, of course, the history of costume. And uses it in her, too, as usual, are different: clear plastic bags from the dry cleaner and plastic bags Franprix, unpicked and turned the white goods, white canvas, running usually at couture layouts, canvas saddlebags in the quality of the hoops — and even papier-mâché. But the framework for margielewski deconstruction will be quite historical forms — Victorian bustier tops and trousers, tucked in lush petticoats and chemises, as Vermeersch thrush. All of this will be to stick on some ribbons and straps and float around the body. And the main thing is that the inside out, underwear be too self-garments — trousers, dresses, jackets. This is a property margielewski fashion that turns technical, ancillary, improvised in basic and aesthetic.Miuccia Prada will not have raw edges and inside-out seams, cut and turned knitwear and especially cellophane bags and plastic bags, but what it definitely was, so this is the feeling of underclothes, turned inside out, moreover, a feeling of some deliberate chaos throughout. And this feeling came from the collection Largely together with knit tops, cropped right under the breast, with ribbons tied around the neck, outstretched in drawstring and a catch-up skirt. All this, together with the wrinkled fabric of which is made of the entire collection, as well as the bellies peeking out swinging blouses, bare shoulders with a trailing straps and bare thighs in shorts/shorts peeking out from demonstrirovalsya — rolled and split — skirts will create an erotic tension, the maximum Bragovskogo ugly chic. All these crumpled, slipping and disintegrating outfits will look perfect walk of shame — as if the models return home after God-knows-where in the dark, somehow pulling myself on yesterday’s crumpled clothes.Did dries van Noten Martin Margiela directly in 2003, working on a collection of Dries Van Noten SS 04 also confidently say difficult, but it will be suddenly a lot came loose negligence, in General, van Notenu not peculiar: the collapse��stories his dress-robes, wrinkled pajama kind of wide trousers and even downright nightgowns — and all this is again tied with ribbons and cords. Especially the effect of underwear is a strong first showing of the collection — white, rumpled and multi-layered, where the straps of the bodice are visible under tops, and sleeveless blouse kept literally two button placket and uneven caught at the waist with a thin belt. Effect negligee strengthen hair-styles — decaying hairy nest on his head, what happens in the morning. Dries van Noten obviously wanted his girls looked just risen from sleep and is in various stages of dressing — and this will happen easily and without any sexual tension.While desovskoe underwear is decorated with frills, ruffles, pockets and even lace, as is traditionally expected. And one of the main decorative elements will be a wide ruffle that encircles the neck, crossing all the body or hanging from one shoulder,— and here they suddenly create the effect of elegance, giving all manner of imposing and even a luxurious look, accentuated by the color play: green to purple-blue or gray-blue to ink blue.RAF Simons, in contrast to Prada and van Noten was at the Paris screening of the collection Largely in the autumn of 1989: “as soon As I went the model, it became clear: there will be something special. They looked so angelic and alien”— he recalled. And if the whole past from the Simons collection for Christian Dior, SS 16, has nothing to do with the collection Largely, the word “angel” from the memories of Simons will be the key. From him least of all was waiting for something angelic as the final chord at Dior, he is after the show said that thought about “Picnic at Hanging rock” Peter Weir and do something Victorian, but “dark with light undertone of sexuality”. This “undertone” just becomes visible only against the background of angelic innocence, like the disappearing girls in the film Peter Weir. White semi-transparent shorts and tops in restonica, more like cotton trousers with high waisted bodices, that is, Victorian underwear that could be worn by the heroine of wear. Over Simons will wear a short sweater, long jacket with patch pockets or even a whole Park, knowing full stylistic force of this contrast, or throw a long sheer dress with an iridescent sheen, achieving the lightest of sexuality. Clean, solid and moving collection, one of the best at Dior last decade, showing what expressiveness can be achieved by the simplest means. The next artistic Director transparent skirts and pants have become one of the key elements of the style of Dior, but Maria Grazia chiuri they are completely different naturaldy.