As the helicopter leaves the Ultramarine platform and rises, I watch the elegant ship recede into the hollow of the fjord, like a jewel in its icy setting.
I wanted to discover Greenland, this immense island bordered by Iceland to the east and Canada to the west. Land of promises and legends, still preserved from wild tourism, it appears to me as a nature destination and an invitation to discover Inuit culture. To make this wish come true, I chose Quark Expeditions, a specialist in polar adventure cruises.
Built in 2021, the Ultramarine from the Quark Expeditions fleet takes me deep into the fjords of the southwest tip of Greenland, with some 170 passengers.
The expedition team on board immediately immerses us in the bath, listing the many activities (kayak, zodiac outing, hiking, mountain biking, camping, helicopter, etc.) that we can do during our trip, warning us nevertheless that We will have to show flexibility, as we depend on the region’s mischievous weather.
The ritual on board before each outing is to go down to the changing rooms where, in an individual locker, boots, life jackets and parkas await us. We will leave our equipment there once we return, before going up to our cabins.
My first zodiac outing brings me to set foot on Greenlandic soil for the first time. A hike in a bare landscape which leads me to the edge of a lake behind which a glacial crust stops. Reflection on calm water. Heather, purple flowers, small brown birds, waterfall in the background. Mineral atmosphere.
Names take you on a journey: Niaqornaq, Kangakistoq, Ilulissat, Anorliuitsup Tasia (the lake where the wind does not blow)…
Every evening when we return aboard the Ultramarine, members of the expedition bring us together in the conference room equipped with a gigantic LED screen for an overview of what we have seen and where we have ventured. Then, my lungs inflated with pure air, my muscles sore from outdoor activities, I return to my light and spacious cabin to read in the living room adjoining my room, seated on a sofa facing the bay window which offers me a unique spectacle of ice and water with changing reflections.
In addition to hiking and mountain biking and twice-daily zodiac outings, I paddled with a partner in a sea kayak among glaciers of unusual shapes, colors and astonishing sizes. Accompanied by a guide, divided into small groups, Ultramarine athletes learn a lot about the formation of a glacier, the dangers of getting too close to icebergs, the climatic impact on the glacial crust, life and the habitat of the eagles which hover not far from the cliff and which we admire in silence.
An adventure would not be complete if, in addition to a land and sea exploration of Greenland, we did not do an aerial one. Whenever the weather permitted, we were able to fly aboard the ship’s two helicopters to land in remote, wild places of unspoiled beauty. This allows you to camp and spend a day with Inuit guides in Tasermiut, a place steeped in legend. A magical moment.
Discussing tattoos, beliefs, fishing, family, winter, development, lost in the middle of nowhere, with locals and seasoned connoisseurs of the region was a memorable experience. Back on board, I will never stop questioning Lana, an Inuit member of the expedition team, to learn more about the culture and life today in Nuuk, the capital, but also in the isolated villages.
We had the opportunity to immerse ourselves in the culture several times during our trip, notably during a stopover in the village of Aappilattoq, nestled at the bottom of a fjord, and on our return to Qassiarsuk, which was the colony of the Viking leader Eric the Red in 982.
Meetings, discoveries, activities that fuel conversations on board around succulent meals served in the evening or presented as a buffet at midday… While the passengers party in the evening in the lounge intended for the end of a lively day, I go out onto the upper deck to still fill my eyes and my heart with a preserved, immense nature, which dances under the stars and makes us humble.
Air Canada offers a non-stop flight between Montreal and Reykjavik. Quark Expeditions then charters a flight from Reykjavik to Narsassouak.
Quark Expeditions specializes in polar expeditions. The company takes a reduced number of passengers on board and negotiates directly with residents the possibility of docking and visiting their village.
Around $10,000 CAD for 8 days (international flight not included).
