(London) At 75, Camilla will wear on May 6, for her coronation, one of the most important dresses of her life. What an irony: she chose to create it the British fashion designer Bruce Oldfield, made famous by Princess Diana.

In 1953, Elizabeth II’s coronation robe was a fairy tale lover’s dream. Satin, embroidery and lace were in the spotlight. It has since been exhibited in museums as a historical object.

Camilla’s is likely to be less lavish, with the King and Queen consort wanting a less grandiose coronation as Britons are hit hard by inflation. But “everyone will look at this dress and it will be analyzed in every detail,” says Caroline Young, author of The color of fashion.

“This dress is going to define her. She will go down in history,” said royal fashion expert Miranda Holder.

When she arrives in Westminster, her dress will be covered with the “robe of state”, a kind of long cape made of embroidered velvet, made in 1953 for Elizabeth II.

According to British media, Camilla chose Bruce Oldfield to design her coronation dress. Contacted by AFP, Buckingham Palace and the designer declined to comment.

The 72-year-old designer has been famous in the UK since the 1980s, when Charles’ ex-wife Diana made him one of her favorite designers. He designed dozens of evening dresses for her, including some of the most famous and glamorous for the princess, who died in 1997 in an accident in Paris.

“He developed his style, his aesthetic working with Diana” who was his “muse”, explains Miranda Holder, but after the separation with Charles, in 1992, Diana distanced herself.

Bruce Oldfield has since become, along with other Britons, one of Camilla’s favorite designers. It was he who designed an elegant black dress that the Queen Consort wore in March in Germany for the royal couple’s first state visit.

“I gave Diana her glamor and Camilla her confidence,” he reportedly said in 2014.

The style of Elizabeth II was recognizable among a thousand with its bright colors, that of Kate Middleton, the wife of Prince William, is one of the most commented on the planet, but that of Camilla sometimes leaves people indifferent.

“I don’t think people say, ‘Wow! Look what she’s wearing!” But she knows exactly what to wear when,” comments Caroline Young.

She loves pastel colors, but also “flamboyant jewelry”, says Miranda Holder. “She’s very natural in her spare time.” “She was in her 60s when she married Charles, which was a certain advantage: she was less scrutinized than Kate or Meghan”, Charles’ daughters-in-law.

Regarding the coronation dress, the bets are on. Miranda Holder wants to believe that she will be in the blues or, if not, “in the pastels”. But not black: “black is for the evening, the red carpet”, mourning.

She expects “a lot of symbols” reminiscent of the Commonwealth countries and the four constituent nations of the United Kingdom (England, Scotland, Wales, Northern Ireland) of which she is queen.

Camilla will wear the crown of Queen Mary, Elizabeth II’s grandmother. In homage to the queen who died in September, several diamonds from her personal collection, who often wore them as brooches, will be included.

Caroline Young believes Camilla’s outfit won’t be “too flashy.” “It’s not easy, because she’s been criticized for years” for being Charles’ mistress: “She knows her reputation is at stake.”

It also highlights the crisis suffered by the British, with inflation remaining above 10%.

Miranda Holder wants glitz and notes that the number of guests has already been reduced: “Hopefully we can afford some fantastic fashion!” »