It is the Hawaiian Pineapple Company (former name of the controversial Dole Food Company) which is said to be behind the immense popularity of pineapple upside down throughout America. In 1925, the company organized a pineapple recipe competition. It looks like over 60,000 recipes were submitted, including 2500 for the cake.
In 1926, the company even launched an advertising campaign inspired by these 2,500 submissions, which had the effect of making the pineapple upside down even more popular. In the 1960s, the legendary cake was once again featured on the cover of Dole’s Pineapple Cookbook.
Of course, this type of dessert is older, dating back to the days when cakes were baked over an open flame. Putting fruits like plums and apples at the bottom of the container (a cast iron skillet, usually) kept the batter from burning.
In the West Indies and certain Latin American countries, people are competing for the title of inventor of pineapple upside down. It is eaten both in Martinique and in Haiti. In the Dominican Republic, Mexico and Panama, volteado de piña is also very popular. Here too, Dole’s perfect canned washers are believed to be at the origin of the phenomenon. That said, nothing prevents you from making the cake with fresh pineapple cut into quarters or in the fanciful shape of your choice.
Homemade pineapple upside down has been the “dessert of the moment” at Piklìz restaurant for… a long time! “We can’t take it off the menu anymore! », confirms Akim Acacia, co-owner. Her brother Abdel uses their aunt’s recipe.
“It’s known in the Haitian community that you shouldn’t say anything bad about this dessert,” says Akim. But secretly, many West Indians regret the bland and dry side of pineapple upside down as it can sometimes be presented at family celebrations. We also see a host of variations of the original recipes appear, with more caramel at the bottom of the mold or the addition of rum after cooking, etc.
Here is the very soft version that Abdel prepares daily. His secret: add crushed pineapple to the dough.