Outside, at the Zurich Bahnhofstrasse it is boiling hot. But not the heat, but the competition of the fashionable online shop, bringing the Swiss Fashion retail sweating. A ruinous discount battle rages on, the last OVS (ehem. Charles Vögele) forced abandonment of more than 140 Swiss branches. And now the Migros, Globus intends to sell its fashion shops. In this environment, PKZ-Boss Manuela Beer (49) explains how demanding it is to run a traditional fashion house successfully. This invites you into the cooled the attic of the PKZ-Men-store in Zurich.

ACCT well. What is the reason?
Manuela Beer: men are less responsive to seasonal Trends, and are easier to dress. Easier in the sense that it is for the First enough to have a classic, great basic service. A white shirt is a white shirt. For success it requires not only the Basics but a wide Casual range of products and accessories and staff that can advise you. The shopping behavior leads to Mr transactions are faster profitable.


no! Already, there is a counter-trend. Just here in the surroundings of the Zurich Bahnhofstrasse, the men dress back to formal. When times are harder, to put more correctly. You do not want to stand out unpleasantly. Business suits have always been the economy.


We have opened in the last few years, two additional men’s stores. Here we see opportunities for growth. There are some cities where we are not yet present, but competitors have gone with a comparable offer. We are in negotiations for an Expansion.

ACCT strike?
Since we don’t know yet who will buy a globe, I don’t want to speculate about the possibilities. PKZ it will not be. Regardless of individual locations might be interesting for us. (laughs)


is Not difficult, but demanding. Especially when it comes to lead a women’s fashion business profitable. For the ladies it needs a larger selection of brands said, you have to join the seasonal Trends. But we manage to keep the woman business profitable. Our three largest branches in Basel, Bern and Zurich are women’s business. It is important to offer the customers a shopping experience. The whole production is more elaborate than in a men’s store.


For PKZ the summer season. The overall market is shrinking, however. Us the Start of the new year is successful, the turnover has grown up by the end of June by five per cent year-on-year. In terms of the weather, we were lucky: The week before the heat wave were often rainy, people came for shopping in the city.


Better the weather couldn’t be for us, because the people to cover us and not to buy costumes and Shorts in the holiday on the beach. This applies to both men and women.


Our growth has been used in 2017. In the last two years, we have grown 2 percent, and now we have this super start to the year.

ACCT better than other fashion houses?
This has to do with our realignment of strategy, we have defined 2015. That was in hindsight the perfect time for the realignment. Not really realizing how strong the change will be, what will be the consequences of digitisation for the industry, we have set back on an experience strategy.


No flying blind, it is very much Knowledge of the garment industry is already included. But that the structural change would be so dramatic, no one suspected. There’s also a Dose of luck was in it. From the start we had the right strategy to maneuver through these difficult times since 2015.

ACCT ?
2019 for us is the moment of truth. Many of the dress shops had to close, of which we benefit. These stores have swept, in recent years, with the liquidation of a lot of goods on the market. But there are also many customers who are looking for a new home. Together with the existing customers, new customers, and in particular in Zurich, tourists we achieve economic growth of five percent until now this year.

Zalando ACCT not out of the market to sweep, such as, for example, Charles Vögele?
Our future lies in “Both-and”: We have 39 stores and an Online Shop. There are customers who buy only online, others, would the shop never online. To make the most of anyway both. For us this means: Not digital, or a stationary trade. We do both.

A large branch network and the investment in the online trading. The can Finance all of it?
There is a total of the invoice. It is very challenging to earn money online, if you are only focused on the Swiss market. The bottom line is that the statement is true. The customers that use both channels, make twice as much revenue as the need of only one of the two channels. Straight men can only be in the Store, an Outfit put together and then order the second suit or more shirts in the online shop.


Basically, the discount battle is bad for the industry. The shops that have granted a lot of discount, which no longer exists. Or if it’s still there, then you have trouble. Our goal is not to have too much clearance, which is unhealthy. It needs a healthy mix of closeout, the many price sensitive customers want, and regular prices.

ACCT profit?
Yes.


people for whom the fashion is important, place value on a large selection, buy early and pay full price. But this is the law of the fashion industry: garments that have not sold during the season, that is to say, the rest of the items in the closeout down. Usually, one starts with a reduction of 30 per cent, the pieces, which are then sold still, go out for half the price.

Manuela Beer (49) is the first Boss in the 138-year history of the family company PKZ. The abbreviation stands for the name of the founder: Paul Kehl, Zurich. In 2015, the late fashion king Philippe Olivier Burger (†61) had brought Beer to PKZ. Since September 2014, she is at the forefront and has led the PKZ-group through difficult times. This is also thanks to their many years of experience in the apparel and luxury goods business. Previously, the HSG graduate has worked for the furniture producer de Sede, and the house globe, goods. The PKZ-Boss with Hans Beer (52), member of the Executive Board of the retail chain Spar (52), married and mother of a daughter.