It was a hot date with a certain Gilles, also known in the middle of the gastronomy as ” the finest palace in France “. But it falls on a young blonde woman. “Hello, I’m Marianne. Gilles is nailed to the bed for ten days after imbibing of the cider farmer not very fresh “… Marianne Lecerf is chief of the international coordination of the Gault & Millau. While she explains her own journey as an ex-interviewer, which now forms the teams, landed Côme de Chérisey, the boss of the guide yellow. It is he who has chosen to lunch at La Condesa, a restaurant in the Ninth arrondissement of Paris held by Indra Carrillo, a chef from mexico to the Gault & Millau was elected ” young talent of the year 2018 “. “It is tiring for the body to eat as much. At home, I am fasting, ” says the interviewer by giving a blow of a fork in the dessert of fresh pineapple with the red pepper and espuma of coconut.
Côme de Chérisey order is automatically the grand menu (nine steps, 78 euros) for the whole table, and we began on the philosophy of the guide that he has redeemed in 2016, which allows him to send out a few scuds, the air of nothing : “It is a small box of challengers. It was an approach that was very humble, unlike our colleagues who are a little statue of the commander. “Take that, Michelin. The Fooding, to him, it is ” boboland, more interested in fashion than for the taste.”
then Comes a froth of tofu, in which swims a sorbet of roasted tomatoes and a crumble of pine nuts. “Whoa ! “- by tasting it. “It is delicious without being fatty. The contrast between the ice and the espuma, sweet and salty, the power of the chilli and the sweetness of the tofu is wonderful, ” says Marianne Lecerf. The following entry, beet, convinces less. “It reminds me of something,” she said.
She pulls out her phone, scrolls through a few photos of the feast taken in the kitchens of Guy Savoy, Jean-François Piège and Yannick Alléno in Paris but also in Vienna, in Romania, in Japan (it is the month of September). Up falling on the cliché of a dish of beets in the Mirazur in Menton, france, where she was this summer. The resemblance is striking. “Mauro Colagreco, the chef, told me that he was inspired by Alain Passard. There are dishes like that walking around. An investigator must have the general knowledge necessary in order to put them in context. “
” It is the job of the chief to provide it ! “
While we attack the taglioni with cuttlefish and zucchini, Marianne Lecerf explains how she planquait when she was very young interviewer : she claimed to be a student, gave the restaurant a big book of philo, that she was pretending to annotate, while she scribbled her impressions of the meal. “But as a girl of 20 years old only at the table, it awakens the attention, I took sometimes my father, who was in on the joke. “” Investigator, this is a bit like a secret agent. It is rewarding but you can’t say to his entourage, ” explains Côme de Chérisey.
It is interrupted by the cod, wrapped in a banana leaf. Marianne Lecerf note the cooking, a little too much thrust. “He had to go with leather in the sheet. But finally, it is the job of the chief to provide it ! “The same dish arrives at the table of Americans beside ; by lifting the sheet that hides coyly the fish, they exclaim, delighted :” This is the bride ! “
When he serves the dishes to the table, the head seems a bit intimidated. Would this be due to the presence of the guide ? The boss responds : “Some chefs don’t care completely to see me, others panic and start to do anything, like add a piece of lobster in the dish. “He insists on the absolute need for investigators to remain anonymous, because” if the server feels the sweat and dirty fingernails, we want to know “.
Investigator, not always a easy job ? “I compare the gastronomic meal, with an experience of almost tantric… a long lunch this is how to make the fun last “, ignites Côme de Chérisey before tempering : “but, but, But linking the tables medium to Arras or to Evreux to find one that will be worth it, this is not very exciting. “It is especially tiring for the body to eat as much. At home, I am fasting. And I always have a pair of sneakers in the trunk of my car for the gym as soon as I can, ” says Marianne Lecerf, with a blow to the fork in the dessert of fresh pineapple with the red pepper and espuma of coconut. Be investigator, this may be a priesthood. But coach of the investigator, it remains a part of the fun.
Read also : I’ve prepared a gourmet dinner on the feast of the Huma