In the cosmetics store you can buy everything. With one “but”: if you have white skin and hair. “Kommersant Style” decided to find out whether fighting the global beauty industry with racism or, conversely, exacerbates the situation.Some ten years ago in the beauty market power was divided the French and American brands. Since then, almost every country in the world has developed a local brand, break boundary. Already the first wave of success going through the Asian cosmetics. Japanese manufacturers have long loved abroad, South Korea altogether has infected the whole world with its K-beauty: it turned out that the multilayer porcelain skin like everyone regardless of nationality. The Scandinavian brands I love for minimalistic design and “green” formulas. Others rely on local ingredients: the Dead sea cosmetics and rich Arabic perfumes are also a lot of fans.50 shades for vsechno a lot whether African-American and African brands can you name? The fight against racial discrimination continued for centuries, and in the beauty industry at least since the beginning of the last century. Few people know that the first American who made a million in the cosmetic business was not Estee Lauder or Helena Rubinstein, and African-American Sarah Breedlove better known as Madam C. J. Walker. Social activist and philanthropist, she launched the first brand of care products for black hair: MCJW already celebrated its 110th anniversary. Now caring for unruly curls — a huge industry in the United States. According to the Nielsen study, African-Americans annually spend $473 million for the care of hair. The cost of white consumers are nine times less. But the hair is still in the lead model with light skin and straight hair.Publication from ??curly super masha?? (@youngmasha) May 18, 2020 at 7:20 PDTТемнокожие models still do not fit into the imposed standards, their face is the exception and a reason for the so-called positive discrimination. The author of the blog @youngmasa Mary Magdalene Tunkara says that racism and the colours in the modeling business was and is. “Popular in the 1990s, black models were, shall we say, more European facial features, they straightened hair to look beautiful conventional. It is still changing very slowly. Me in the photos did lighter skin. I did not wait when this is all over, and retired from the fashion business,” says Masha.Ethnic characteristics are important not only when choosing hair care products. The first brand of makeup for African American women, Asian women and Hispanic women appeared in 1994. It launched Iman and named in his honor. Following her example, the range of Foundation creams extended MAC, Nars, Bobbi Brown and Make Up For Ever. But only in 2017 appeared a wide variety of applications.azie shades of chocolate and coffee under the slogan “Beauty for all” Rihanna has launched its brand Fenty Beauty, starting with 40 shades of Foundation. The singer ahead of the main dark-skinned make-up artist Pat McGrath: its Foundation came only two years later and has 36 shades, while Fenty Beauty of their already fifty. Thanks to Rihanna inclusiveness has become the new standard and not just a matter of equality, but also a sales tool. And now its four dozen shades of tonal resources has many brands from Maybelline to Dior.Black paralysie racism in beauty culture characterizes not only a lack of color. Another problem with cultural appropriation. For example, blogger Anastasia Reshetova posted a selfie in hijab, and the Swedish model Emma Hallberg uses a very dark concealer, dye and curl her hair to look like African. Each time this behavior causes at least misunderstanding, but more often criticism.Publication from EMMA HALLBERG (@eemmahallberg) Mar 12, 2020 at 10:55 PDTНо the main problem is the racist language and stereotypes that “white” brands use, with a clear negative connotation. Two years ago mark Wycon Cosmetics has released a seasonal collection of nail Polish Gel On. Nothing unusual, only a black shade called “Thick as a nigga” (“Thick as a nigger”). In response to thousands of angry tweets, the company has posted in their social networks a formal apology. Its essence was reduced to that that to offend nobody wanted, and the name of the shade repeats the name of the song rapper DBangz “Thick Nigga”. After that, the brand has replaced the incorrect name of the nail Polish a neutral room.Goes not only to the Africans and mulattos. Brand Tarte has been used offensive slang ching chong (“chink”). In his Twitter chief editor of magazine about beauty Allure Michelle Lee (with Japanese and Chinese roots) has asked the brand to remove this post. Further, as in the story of Wycon.Photo: Getty Madefromcash helps not only inclusiveness, but also focus on its absence. Black (in all senses) PR was a deliberate move in order to increase brand popularity. The scheme is simple. The company produces viral ads, then apologizes and, as a delinquent child promises never to do. Soon not burden themselves with ethical issues, the majority forgets about the scandal, but not about the brand, which has gained thousands of new customers. The goal is achieved.Mary Magdalene believes that the joke is racist, not being a person from the oppressed group, very rude and unethical: “One apology is not solved. I am much hurt, especially in the current political situation. Even in black PR needs to be standards of decency”.In response to the growing request multiracial audience, to be a brand “for all” becomes the norm. Although PLAno equality and diversity was still much to do, in the end, all cosmetics should be inclusive, and the phrase “national minority” is to disappear from our vocabulary.5 ethnic brands that will appeal semerina Novik
