In Paris during fashion week Haute Couture presentations of high jewelry for the first time in a new digital format because of security reasons in the context of a global pandemic. “Kommersant Style” talks about the different strategies brands and major updates.Back in April during the quarantine, which slowed down the whole world for a few months, the French Federation of fashion reported that the summer haute couture week, but screenings will be held in the new secure digital format. Therefore, jewelry brands, which during couture week show high jewelry collection, you had to make a decision — make a presentation online or transfer it to next season. Atelier on place Vendome was closed for the duration of the quarantine, the production schedule was disrupted, there was no guarantee that by July to restore traffic, and thus the main guests, clients and journalists will not be able to fly in the summer in Paris. In the end, every jewelry house was rebuilt under a new reality in its own way. Major players De Beers, Louis Vuitton, Chanel, Dior, Chopard, Repossi and more intimate, Mellerio and Buccellati has postponed the presentation until a better time — someone will show new items in September, someone will wait for January’s couture week. Option to transfer a big presentation for next summer, and now present a special collection picked Messika and Van Cleef & Arpels. Only Cartier, Chaumet, Bvlgari, Boucheron, Piaget and Tiffany decided not to change their plans and show the collections on which they worked for about three years now.But what format to choose? How to deal with international editors and clients? And what if not all the decorations the Studio had time to finish? This season jewellery houses had to step out of comfort zone and think most creative. Boucheron made a film about the new collection and do every international market direct inclusion: creative Director Claire Shuang explained in detail the history of each set, and then answered questions of journalists. Chaumet made a live broadcast where international editors on frenglish welcomed CEO Jean-Marc Mansvelt. He did a tour of the recently restored mansion of the brands on the place vendôme and talked with experts at home about the new collection. Valerie Messika held in French Zoom-live with the invited guest, a Parisian journalist Peggy Frey and with her trying on jewelry. But the presentation of the Cartier surpassed the rest of the French office directly communicated with each market format Zoom conference, jewelry on models and showcases live shot professional videographer, each could be asked to pull up and ask a clarifying question.However, online broadcasts this season, enjoyed no less popularity among regular customers, whichwhich readily restock high jewelry of the house. Many reacted calmly to the fact that some jewelry was presented at the plan stage — knowing the brand, to purchase expensive jewelry and sketches. If it’s jewelry love, it is, of course, at first sight. Cartier collection [Sur]Naturel the House of Cartier presented the first Chapter of a new collection of high jewelry [Sur]Naturel, the theme of which was the role of nature in the history of the brand. There is both abstract and figurative interpretation, but the main emphasis is made on gems: the design of each product was established under the gemologists findings. For example, Hemis necklace with Central purple kunzite seventy one carat black opals and diamonds, a reference to the color of the snow leopard, graphic necklace with emeralds and diamonds Gharial — on the pattern of crocodile skin, and Sinop with five blue sapphires to the sea waves. The master of the house has not forgotten its main symbol — the Panther in the new collection presented in the form of jewellery, watches, Panthre Tropicale with tourmalines, aquamarines, coral, onyx and diamonds.Boucheron, a collection of Contemplation”this year I wanted to capture the beauty of the simple everyday moments — flying flock of swallows across the sky, movement of clouds, the rustle of dandelions. When quarantine all suddenly went wrong, I was suddenly at his home on the beach in Portugal, and these simple moments have become my reality. So, I realized the extent to which nature and its beauty is important to me,” she says about the new collection Contemplation creative Director of Boucheron Claire Shuang. There are several technical achievements Claire is considered one of the most creative jewelers of our time. Necklace Goutte de Ciel with this piece of the sky from fragile aerogel or a necklace Nuage en Apensateur with 5 thousand of small diamonds that hover around the neck like a cloud. In the collection there are also new interpretations of classic pieces — a cuff bracelet Murmure d’etoiles with Central cabochon 150 carats tanzanite and necklaces in the shape of a question mark Perle de Plume, studded with tiny Akoya pearls.Messika collection VoltigeПо said Valerie Messika, her new collection of Voltige — jewelry answer to what is happening in the world this year: “after quarantine, I realized that our Studio will not have time to finish conceived a Grand collection, I decided on an impromptu step to release a special mini-collection from scratch. Appealed to the Pope (Andre Messika — known merchant of diamonds. “Y-Style”) for the best gemstones and created literally a month and a half”. Main inspiration — the acrobats and aerial dancers in the circus, whose movements seem light, although they are backed by years of training. A triumph of balance and technology Valerie compares with a jeweler’s skill. Special emphasis made on huge Hoop earrings similar to the attributes of circus performers, two finger rings with Central diamonds of various cuts and favorite designer asymmetrical monasery.Bvlgari collection Agoshkov the new season, the creative Director of the jewelry Bvlgari the direction of Lucia Silvestri decided to dedicate a collection of the architectural heritage of the Roman Baroque and attractions of the “eternal city”. Necklace and earrings Arabesque Lady in pink gold with lilac and pink sapphires, Paraiba tourmalines, emeralds and diamonds and a steel bracelet version of the Golden arches of the Baroque Church of Sant’ignazio. Set with Cabochon Exuberance tanzanite, tourmalines, aquamarines and emeralds — a reference to the colorful gardens of Villa Farnese, rings Raggio di Luce and Ray Diamond with yellow diamonds, to the sculptural group “Ecstasy of St. Teresa” bronze rays of the sun Lorenzo Bernini in the Church of Santa Maria della Victoria, and the Arabesque ring with diamonds and emeralds, to the ornaments on the ceiling of the Church of Sant’andrea al Quirinale.Piaget collection Wings of LightPiaget decided to distribute sketches of new collection in electronic records, but they found out that one set of jewelry manages to deliver in Paris, organized a meeting with journalists in the flagship boutique on Rue de la Paix. According to representatives of the brand, some ready sets immediately went to Asia, where the situation with the pandemic almost normal and we can safely conduct a live meeting.The main inspiration Piaget this year — the gardens of Paradise in South America. The collection is divided into three chapters. First Enchanted Flight of fabulous birds, so on the main necklace-transformer set from Majestic Plumage not only precious gems (Paraiba tourmaline, spinel, yellow, red and blue sapphires), and feather marquetry. The second Chapter is devoted to the Magnificent Heaven oases and waterfalls that can be found in the South American jungle, where all the items are made of diamonds and colored stones of blue-green hues — emeralds, sapphires, chrysoprase, malachite, tourmaline and black opal. And the third Chapter is about Ecstatic Dance of Sunny yellow and crimson red sunsets on the ocean, which in the jewelry version is presented in the form of yellow diamonds, red spessartite, pink tourmalines and sapphires, rubellite and spinel. Van Cleef & Arpels, the collection Hommage la haute joaillerie Place VendmeРуководство brand decided to move the shows his new collection for next year and instead show three exclusive set live in Paris for those who live here or unable to attend, or remotely in an electronic document international editors. These sets were created specifically for the future opening of a new boutique on the place vendôme, which had to be postponed because of the quarantine. The main characters — the three most beloved precious stone of Van Cleef & Arpels: ruby, emerald and diamond. Each of the ornaments with��Alo new version of the classics of the house. Diamond earrings Tendresse Etincelante created in the image and likeness of earrings, given to Jackie Kennedy husband Aristotle Onassis. A gold cuff bracelet Rubis en Scne with rubies and diamonds — a modern copy of a favorite decoration of the actress Marlene Dietrich (she bought it herself on their fees). Necklace-transformer Merveille d Emeraudes with five emeralds with a total weight of .70 carats was created based Collerette necklace that was worn by Princess Faiza of Egypt. In September, the Museum of Mineralogy at the Jardin des Plantes on the Left Bank of Paris will open a huge exhibition of historical products of Van Cleef & Arpels “gem stones”. This is a clear story about how minerals are turned into works of jewelry art. The exhibition will run until June next year. Tiffany & Co., a collection of Extraordinary TiffanyПо conceived by creative Director of Tiffany & Co. Reed Krakoff, a new collection of Extraordinary Tiffany — a tribute to the skill of the jewelry shops at home. Most of the jewelry made in platinum to the diamonds and rare colored stones — pink tourmaline, red spinel, yellow diamonds and green emeralds. By the way, the diamond necklace Clara weighing 11 carats was found in Russia.Chaumet collection PerspectivesНовая collection of Chaumet, is the story about how architecture influences thinking jewellers, and an ode to their technical skills. The collection is divided into six chapters. The first Skyline about deconstruction and different techniques of working with gold is the title decoration here asymmetrical necklace with emeralds and diamonds. Second Lux talks about the Italian Renaissance so the rings are oval cabochons, round arches reminiscent of the Roman Pantheon. Lacis third is devoted to the Belle Epoque style and signature technique for Chaumet diamond mesh fil couteau — in of the new collection of precious colorful grid hidden gems. Fourth Ondulation inspired by the techniques of processing gold of the famous jeweler Pierre Sterle — here the main emphasis is on rings and earrings, like “woven” from hundreds of gold links. The fifth Mirage about the bold finds the house and its symbols. One of the most curious objects in this part of the collection — tiara-transformer, which can be worn in three different ways: only with the sapphire part, only with a diamond or both. And sixth called Labyrinthe inspired by the Russian constructivism and Italian futurism, where the main emphasis is on intricate jewellery patterns, play with light, volume, matter and color. Lydia Ageeva
